I have found that among the non-Cypriots living in Cyprus, there is little to no knowledge of Lazarus Saturday in Larnaca, therefore, I decided to make a post detailing this feast day for the patron saint of the city. Read on to learn about this important day which kicks off Orthodox Christian Holy Week on a high note, and for tips on how you can witness and enjoy the festivities!
Who is St. Lazarus?
The account of Christ’s friend Lazarus, brother of Mary and Martha, is found in the Gospel of John in the New Testament of the Christian Bible. Lazarus fell ill and died, and Christ came to the tomb that Lazarus was buried in and commanded him to “come out.” Lazarus’ resurrection from death marks the last public miracle that Christ performs before his arrest, trial, suffering and crucifixion in the week that follows, leading up to Easter Sunday.
What Does Cyprus Have To Do With St. Lazarus?
Extra-Biblical sources and tradition note that after his resurrection, Lazarus was facing danger from the Jewish authorities and needed to flee from Judea. He eventually set sail to the island of Cyprus, which he made his new home until his second earthly death, where he established the church in Kition (Larnaca), and became the bishop of the area, ordained by Paul and Barnabas. What are believed to be his remains were discovered beneath the alter of the church in a sarcophagus which bore the inscription, “Lazarus, four days dead, friend of Christ.” His bones are displayed year-round in a large silver-encased reliquary box, which can be viewed daily during church operating hours.
What is Lazarus Saturday?
Lazarus Saturday, or Saturday of Lazarus, is the Saturday before Palm Sunday, one week before Pascha (Easter) Sunday. This is the day in the Orthodox Church where we remember Christ’s raising of Lazarus, and as such, is the feast day for St. Lazarus. Feast Days in the church normally involve a Divine Liturgy in the morning, to include a hymn to the saint being remembered that day, and their icon is predominantly displayed for the faithful to see and venerate upon entering the church. Anyone who is named after the saint celebrates their “Name Day,” much like is done for a birthday.
In the early church, Lazarus Saturday was the day of the year when catechumens (persons who were going through the process of becoming Christian) to the faith were baptized. Baptisms are discouraged during Great Lent (the time of spiritual preparation before Pascha/Easter) and prohibited during Holy Week, as the mood is supposed to be somber with emphasis on prayer and introspection, etc. However, Lazarus Saturday is a special feast day, a bit of respite from the trials and tribulations of the previous 6 weeks of Great Lent, and along with Palm Sunday, serve as a brief moment of joyfulness to give strength for what is to come during Holy Week. For this reason, we chose to have our son baptized on Lazarus Saturday, and so it is an extra-special day for our family!
What Happens in Larnaca On This Day?
As the final resting place of St. Lazarus, and the church where his bones are preserved and on display, Larnaca has the special privilege of hosting what is the most special celebration of Lazarus Saturday in the world! A vesperal service is held on Friday night at 6:30 p.m. Saturday morning, Divine Liturgy for the feast day starts at 7:15 a.m. After the liturgy, you can find tables outside the church with charities selling “Lazarakia” – little vegan/lenten cookies shaped to represent St. Lazarus. The evening service begins at 6:30 p.m., and it is attended by clergy, politicians (including the President), and the faithful (and tourists!) from around the island. The reliquary box and a large icon of St. Lazarus will be decorated with flowers and on display for people to venerate. You can pass under the icon, which is set up on a special stand (watch your head!). At the end of the service (approx. 7:30 p.m.), a procession with the National Guard, a band, boy and girl scouts, alter servers, psalti (chanters), and clergy will lead the icon and the reliquary box out of the church and into the square, and then along the streets surrounding the church area, and eventually back into the church. It is really a special event for the town and the church community. I have a short reel of the procession leaving the church here.
Logistics if You Visit Larnaca for Lazarus Saturday
Keep in mind that the roads leading to and from the old part of town where the church is will be closed from at least 4:00 p.m. -10:00 p.m., with some roads closing from the morning. The municipality will list the exact areas and times of closures in the days leading up to Lazarus Saturday. Here are the closures for 2024, as an example:
- Athinon Avenue, from 7:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m.
- Saint Lazarus Square and the streets around it, from 4:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m.
- Ermou Street from the junction with Galilaiou and Athinas Streets, from 4:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m.
- N. Rossou, P. Valsamaki, Municipal Market, G. Droutsioti, L. Sofou and F. Aristotelous Streets, from 4:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m.
- Digeni Akrita Street, from 4:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m.
- Galileo Street, from 4:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m.
So, if you do not already live within walking distance and want to travel in by car, you will need to plan in advance. Parking will be difficult. You may want to arrive earlier in the day and enjoy lunch, spend some time at the beach, have a coffee somewhere around the church (we recommend Lazaris Bakery Bar), and then walk over to the church for the service. You will encounter what appears to be a very long line of people waiting to venerate the relics and icon of the saint, but don’t be deterred – the line moves quickly.
Speaking of the church service, it will be PACKED. Your best bet is to squeeze yourself into a spot upstairs (there are two staircases at the back of the church). This also has the perk of providing the best vantage point inside the building! If you feel too claustrophobic, the speakers will be blasting the service, so you can stake out a position outside the church and be ready for the procession while still hearing the service itself.
If you are travelling from a distance and need to spend the night in Larnaca, Hotel Opera is right across the street from the church, and although the rooms are small and not very “lux”, if you can snag a balcony room overlooking the street, you will have a perfect view of the procession without having to jostle for standing room. This is also a fantastic situation if you have babies or toddlers – they can sleep or at least run around the room safely while you still have access to watch the procession and hear the service. This would definitely need to be booked well in advance, though, and you will need to specifically ask for a balcony room. Your booking includes parking, too!
Two other hotels nearby that we can recommend are Hotel Indigo (but it is for adults, only) and St. Lazaros Studios, which features apartment-type rooms with a fridge, stove and washing machine. Both are located right behind the church.
If you would like to walk with the procession, you will need to be out of the church and at the front and ready to go, as the crowds amass and the area can be a bit tight to maneuver, especially with children. Young kids can easily sit on their parents’ shoulders so that they can can a better view. Another option is to station yourself along the route, and then you can watch as everyone passes by. I choose to come out of the church through the back door as I see the alter boys filing out, and then get myself near the front of the “line up” and simply watch everyone file by from there, staying back and not following the procession through the streets, as I don’t like to get caught up in the crowds.
The procession will pass through the following streets: Agios Lazaros, Pavlos Valsamakis, Athens Avenue, Filiou Zannetou, Zenonos Kitios, Zenonos Pieridis, Galileou Street, Ermou Street, Nikolaou Russian, and back to Agios Lazaros.
Final Thoughts
For an Orthodox Christian, or even just as a culturally-curious tourist, the evening of Lazarus Saturday in Larnaca is a unique event that is really wonderful to experience at least once in your lifetime! If you are planning a trip to Cyprus, why not schedule it for this time of year, and catch the beautiful services and traditions that Holy Week has to offer to both believers and non-believers alike. And if you can’t make it in person, you can watch the live streaming from the church’s Facebook page here (that’s what I’ll be doing this year). Let me know in the comments below if you have been, or if you have any questions about Holy Week in Cyprus!
